| INCI Cetyl Tranexamate HCl |
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| Applications • Products for the face, hand, and body aimed at fading dark spots and hyperpigmentation; visibly even skin tone for a luminous complexion • Spot and blemish treatments • Recommended forms: serums, lotions, sprays, gel-creams, and creams |
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| Key Benefits • Multifunctional ingredient for better cost-efficiency: emulsifier and bioactive • Delivers tranexamic acid into deeper layers of the skin • Inhibits the activity of plasmin and subsequent inflammation cascade • Prevents the UV-induced activation of melanocytes • Dermatologically proven safe for skin |
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| Use level: 1 to 5 % (clinically tested at 2%) Compatible with most non-ionic or cationic co-emulsifiers, thickeners, and gelling agents Recommended procedure: preferably disperse thickeners or gelling agents in the water phase first (if any). Combine Cetyl Tranexamate HCl with the water phase, heat to 85ºC mixing to dissolve. Add the oil phase and mix to emulsify. Carry on according to standard practice. |
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Bioactive Rationale Tranexamic Acid (TXA) is a third-generation bioactive that prevents and soothes both redness and dark spots. External skin disruptors (i.e., UV light, shaving, stripping solvents, detergents, etc.) cause the keratinocytes in the epidermis to produce signal mediators (e.g., plasminogen). These mediators initiate a cascade of events in the skin, including inflammation, atypical plasmin activity, proliferation of keratinocytes, desquamation, melanocyte differentiation, increased tyrosinase activity, and transfer of melanosomes to upper layers. The result is an unevenly pigmented dull skin. TXA inhibits plasmin activity, decelerating all those processes while promoting a more uniform skin tone and a faster skin barrier recovery. However, the permeability of TXA through the skin is insufficient due to its hydrophilic nature and strong bonding capacity. Esters of TXA present a higher level of skin-targeting, and epidermal esterases can break down TXA esters to the active TXA form. TXA esters are known skin permeation enhancers and may boost the efficacy of other active ingredients. |
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